Chausathi Yogini Temple - Roofless Architectural Wonder of Odisha

           With the very mention of a roofless temple with 64 Yoginis by our tour guide, without a second thought, I was curious to visit the place. We were on our tour in Bhubneshwar in the temple city of Odisha. After visiting the Raja Rani Temple our next place was Chausathi Yogini Temple, in Hirapur just few kilometers from Bhubneshwar.

We reached the temple enclosure surrounded by lush green paddy fields and a monument maintained by ASI,

What are Yoginis ?

Yogini is a Sanskrit term for a female master practitioner of yoga, as well as a formal term of respect for female Hindu or Buddhist spiritual teachers or goddesses in the Indian sub-continent or demi goddesses worshipped for tantric practices too.

The term is the feminine Sanskrit word of the masculine yogi, while the term yogin is used in neutral, masculine or feminine sense. Yogini (jogan) is a term in ancient and medieval texts in Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, typically in the context of and as an aspect of Devi. 

A Yogini, in some contexts, is the sacred feminine force made incarnate, as an aspect of Godess Parvati,the consort of Lord Shiva and revered in yogini temples of India as the Eight Matrikas or the Sixty-four Yoginis. The object of worship was usually a Chakra or Wheel which had sixty-four spokes, hence the name (Chausathi translates to sixty-four in Odia). The presiding deity is Goddess Kali. The yogini’s are believed to be offshoots of the Saptamatrika and are incarnations of Shakti and depicted as vivacious and seem to embrace life rather than withdraw from it. The yoginis define and represent the ultimate feminine power.

Their temples are usually found with a group of 64 of them. The yoginis are depicted in the form of chakra, and probably that is why their temples are built in a Circular, form of a chakra or a wheel formation. Each yogini poses on a spoke of this wheel in different postures.

These are 64 Yoginis below 

Bahurupa

Tara

Narmada   

Yamuna

Shanti

Varuni

Kshemankari

Aindri

Varahi

Ranveera

Vanara-Mukhi

Vaishnavi

Kalaratri

Vaidyaroopa

Charchika

Betali

Chinnamastika

Vrishabahana

Jwala Kamini

Ghatavara

Karakali

Saraswati

Birupa

Kauveri

Bhaluka

Narasimhi

Biraja

Vikatanna

Mahalakshmi

Kaumari

Maha Maya

Rati

Karkari

Sarpashya

Yakshini

Vinayaki

Vindya Balini

Veera Kumari

Maheshwari

Ambika

Kamiyani

Ghatabari

Stutee

Kali

Uma

Narayani

Samudraa

Brahmani

Jwala Mukhi

Agneyei

Aditi

Chandrakanti

Vayubega

Chamunda

Murati

Ganga

Dhumavati

Gandhari

Sarva Mangala

Ajita

Surya Putri

Vayu Veena

Aghora

Bhadrakali

( The list of yoginis differs from different yogini temples in India )

Each one of them has a name that we identify with, but no two temples have the same order This tells us that the local worshippers might have had the choice of yoginis during the construction of temple. Idols inside the wall are  in different gestures, moods and few look ferocious. Each of them has certain powers and you worship the one who can fulfill your wish, which could be anywhere from getting a child to destroying an enemy.

History of  Chausath Yogini Temple

The temple date back to  somewhere in 9th CE. Goddess Mahamaya was been reverred by the local villagers. It was however deciphered by the Kedarnath Mahapatra of Odisha State Museum in 1953. Since then, it has been under ASI. My sense is that the temple would have always been a practice.

It is said to be built by Queen Hiradevi of the Bhauma dynasty, a dynasty that was ruled by women successors.. In fact, the village that has this temple is called Hirapur after the queen. The temple is locally called Mahamaya Temple, after the presiding deity.

Reasons behind the construction of the temple by a queen, whether she was an ardent worshipper of Shakti or for his followers are yet to be known.

Kalapahad, a converted Muslim general of 16th CE is said to have defaced the temple, as well as broken the Murtis. He is famously known as the destroyer of Puri and Konark temples.

Chandi Pitha

The circular wall inside has 60 Yoginis, the other four were on the central square platform called Chandi Pitha. Of these 4, only 3 are there right now, and one is missing. There are 4 sculptures of 4 Bhairavas in 4 niches here. Devi temples always have the presence of Bhairava.

A close observation reveals that there was an image of Lord Shiva in the center, but the priest did not mention it. As of now, no one sits on this Chandi Pitha. All the Pujas are done in front of Mahamaya.

Exterior Wall of Temple

The outer wall is relatively simpler. It has nine niches at regular intervals with nine Devi Murtis. They are called Nav-Katyayanis or Nava-Durga. Priest related them to the nine forms of Durga that are worshipped during the Navaratri. But I could not relate the imagery to those forms of Shakti. It is possible there is another interpretation that I am not aware of.

Outer Murtis are larger in size than the inner ones. They are standing on dead bodies or dogs or jackals, the animals typically found near dead bodies. Remember some tantric practices involve the use of dead bodies, the reason you see many tantric at the cremation grounds. In their hands, they hold different weapons.

 Figures are seen standing on heads in different postures, sporting a parasol on heads, with assistants, wielding a weapons.

Few of the idols have been damaged by invaders, Devotees visiting the temple seem to light oil lamps in devotion and idols look charred. Hence defacing the image and monument!

Chausath Yogini Utsav

Every year on 23 - 25th December, every year Chausath Yogini Mahotsava is celebrated. The Odisha dance and music are performed on a stage right outside the temple.

A big Yagna is performed on Magh Saptami.

Chandi Path is done every day during the Navratri festival.

Travel Tips for Hirapur – Chausath Yogini Temple

• Hirapur is about 15 KM from Bhubaneshwar city.
• Temple is a protected monument and maintained by ASI, but the local priest takes care of  daily puja rituals
• It is open from 6 AM – 7 PM. Evening Aarti takes place just before the closing of the temple.
• Early morning is the best time to visit the temple. Mind your head, as the entrance to the temple, is low. !
• There is no entrance fee, though its an ASI monument. Devotees can donate as per their wishes.