Reminiscing Twin Passes - Bhyundar Khal & Gupt Khal 2010

In the Footsteps of Frank Smythe

Commemorating the 80th Year of discovery of the VoF Trail

Ever since I visited the famous Vale in 1997, it has been a long-held desire to explore beyond what one usually sees in the lovely Eden of the "Valley of Flowers."

As many of us know this pretty valley was brought to the limelight for the first time by the legendary Frank Smythe during his return from the successful bid at Mt Kamet.

Call it a coincidence or destiny, I came to know about a group planning for an expedition 80 years, after Frank's sympathe visit and explored it. Though my visit to Kedar Tal and Gaumukh exploration was fixed before this, i expressed my keen interest in joining the expedition group in Joshimath. 

It was nice to hear from Ashutosh ( Ashu in short) that am planning to use the pre-monsoon season for this year to retrace the path(80% of the way :-)) he covered on that memorable journey down. Just as a retrospect, after the monsoon of 2010, the 80th year of that discovery shall commence.

The 100 km trek starts off from Govindghat and ends up at Badrinath after passing through two high Passes- Bhyunder Khal (5100M) and Gupt Khal (5760M). This shall be a fully supported trek with all necessary technical gear and manpower.

The final team of

1.Ashutosh Mishra / New Delhi

2.Arun Negi / New Delhi

3.Bharat Tomar / New Delhi

4.Ravin  / Mumbai

5.Suraj  Mal / New Delhi

6.Rajesh / New Delhi

7.Madhur Lakahani / Mumbai

8. Vishwanath Radhakrishna / Bangalore

The dates were fixed before to Opening of Hemkund Sahib and necessary ILP was sent the papers for processing. It was a sign of relief when I heard from Ashu that hope it happens without hassles :-)

I joined the Guide, Porter and staff from Uttarkashi with all equipment including 10 new gaiters and mitten covers arrived to supplement the resources for porters.. :-)

Hope just that the weather gods are kind
The countdown has begun...

Therefore, am inviting willing members who are fit to join in the expedition. Prior trekking experience in snow and high altitude conditions would be a necessary criterion.

Here is the Itinerary

Day 0- Delhi- Hardiwar- 210 Km

Start from Delhi in the late afternoon at about 1600. The 6-hour drive terminates at Hardwar late at night (about 2200) . Dinner at Dhaba en route and night halt at GMVN accommodation.

Day 1- Hardwar – Govindghat(1770M)- 320 Kms

Start early in the morning after breakfast at 0700 Hrs. A brief stop at Devprayag for shooting the Ganges confluence in early daylight. Lunchstop at Rudraprayag at 1300 Hrs. Start from Rudraprayag at 1400 Hrs and reach Joshimath at 1800 to catch the last gate opening for Badrinath. Drive on to Govindghat for camping at 1900.

Day 2- Govindghat(1770M)- Ghangahria(3100M)- 14 KM

Start after breakfast at 0800. The paved trail winds up sharply and then along the gentle slopes of the Laxman Ganga Valley. Packet lunch at Bhyunder village at 1300 Hrs. After a brief rest, start from Bhyunder at 1400 and reach Ghangharia at 1700 Hrs. Roam the market at Ghanghria in the evening and photoshoot around the little hamlet. Halt and dinner at camp.

Day 3- Ghanghria(3100M)- Chakultheid CG (3600M) 8 KM

Start after breakfast at 0800 Hrs. The path soon reaches the bifurcation of the route to Hemkund and Valley of Flowers. Spend an easy time in the Valley of Flowers from exploring and photo shooting on the way from 0900 to 1300. The northbound route turns northeast at Bamnidhaur and proceeds straight along a river. Camp and late lunch at Chakulthed CG. Spend the evening exploring the valley further more.

Day 4- Chakultheid CG(3600M)- Bhyunder Base(4400M) 6KM

Start early at 0600 Hrs to negotiate the tough climb to Bhyunder Khal Base camp. The route soon turns Northwards at a glacier confluence. Proceeding along the sharp and rocky climb, aim to gain the platform on the base of the Bhyunder Khal. The Khal is visible directly due East. Packet lunch en route in the middle of the glacier. Camp at 1400 Hrs.

Day 5- Rest Day(4400M)-

Depending on the team mood attempt pass or spend the day acclimatizing and carrying out reccee trips for the route ahead.

Day 6- Bhyunder Base(4400M)-Bhyunder Khal(5100M)- Eri Udyar(4300M) 8KM

Start early in the morning at 0600 Hrs to gain the ridge top describing the pass by 0900. Photo session for half an hour capturing the views of both valleys, Rata Pahar, Uki Pahar, Mt Kagbhushand, Mt Nilgiri, and the numerous peaks of the Kamet massif. Start descent to reach the glacier bottom by 1200 Hrs and have packet lunch. Trek for another few hours to reach camp by 1500. Now one is on the true right bank of the Bankund Glacier with the Eri Udyar directly opposite and Deovan Plateau visible due North-West. Due East would be the glacier snout and starting point of Amrit Ganga leading all the way down to Ghamsali.

Day 7- Eri Udyar(4300M)- Bankund Gl Camp (5000 M) 8.5 KM

Start early morning again by 0600 Hrs for the tough day ahead. Cross the confluence of Nilgiri Glacier soon after. After proceeding for a Kilometer the route takes a sweeping turn to the left due southwest, just opposite the glacier coming from the Deovan plateau. Cross the main body of the Bankund Glacier to gain the true left bank. Proceed North for a few kilometers to reach Bankund Glacier Camping Ground.

Day 8- Bankund Gl Camp (5000 M)- Garh Camp (5400 M) 4.5 KM

Start at 0900 the next morning to catch the medial moraine ridge due west of the camp. Follow the ridge NW a few kilometers to reach Garh camping ground. Close to the head of the Bankund Glacier, this is the place from where Gupt Khal (The Secret Pass)becomes visible. Lunch and Camp by 1400 Hrs. The team rests well to get ready for the Pass. The advance team goes out to do reccee of the possible site for Pass Base camp and a suitable approach to the Pass.

Day 9- Garh Camp(5400 M)- Gupt Khal Base (5600 M) 4 KM

Start early at 0600 Hrs after light breakfast to reach base camp directly opposite the Pass. The route continues on a medial moraine ridge to reach the South Flank of Mana Parvat. Follow the ridge bottom due west to reach the point directly opposite the Gupt Khal. Pitch camp by 1200 Hrs. Prepare lunch and rest. The advance team goes out for reccee and rope fixing (if required) to attempt the pass the next day. Take care to pitch camp at a place where the sun hits early, the next morning.

Day 10- Rest Day (5600 M) (Slack day)

Day 11- Gupt Khal Base (5600M)– Gupt Khal (5760 M)- Upper Nakthani Camp (4600M) 9 KM

Start early at 0800 Hrs and gain the top(5760M) by 1000 Hrs. This is the highest point of the expedition. Spend half an hour doing an early morning photoshoot of all the major peaks in the Kamet and Mana massif, Saraswati Valley, and the expanse of Bankund Glacier. Start descent by 1030 to cross the long snowfield NW of the Pass. Packet lunch after crossing the snowfield at 1400 Hrs. Sharp descent for another couple of hours to reach Upper Nakthani CG.

Day 12- Upper Nakthani Camp (4600M) –Badrinath (3100 M) 14+4 Km

Start early from Upper Nakthani CG at 0800 Hrs. Reach Nakthani CG by 0900 and reach Saraswati River valley by 1000. Cross the river and catch the Army trail by 1100 and start off for Badrinath downhill. Late lunch at Mana Village at 1400 Hrs. See Vyas and Ganesh Gufa en route as Porters proceed on for Badrinath. Vehicle to be ready at end of Mana village for the ferry on to Badrinath. Evening Darshan at Badrinath and a warm bath at Taptakund.

Day 13- Badrinath(3100M)- Hardwar- 346 Kms

Early morning Puja at 0500 Hrs after hot water bath at Taptakund. Start off to catch the 0600 Hrs gate. Leave Joshimath by 1000 Hrs after late breakfast. Reach Srinagar at 1400 for late lunch. Leave Srinagar by 1530 and reach Rishikesh by 2000.

Day 14- Rishikesh- Delhi- 210 Kms

The 100 km trek starts off from Govindghat and ends up at Badrinath after passing through two high Passes- Bhyunder Khal (5100M) and Gupt Khal (5760M).

I got a call from one of the members of the group on the 10th evening and it's really sad to hear that one porter lost his life during the trek. The team did complete the twin trek successfully but would have been better if this incident hadn't happened.

May his soul rest in peace.

Congratulations to all the members for completing this tough trek successfully.
Asuhubhai, waiting for your detailed report at the earliest.