Kardameshwar Temple - Kashi's sole surviving architectural wonder

        Our Ashta Bhairav Yatra was coming to an end after lasting visiting Unnmat Bhairav Temple in Varanasi. Our auto driver looking at our interest compelled us to visit a temple by taking a detour on Panchkroshi path.

Little did i know about this temple until i came face to face to it. Rising above the vast water body Kardama kunda, is the gigantic east-facing Kardameshwar temple and is located  outskirts of Varanasi - Banaras, approximately 6km south-east of the holy city.

Though the temple is a master piece of sole surviving temples in Varanasi. Not much is known till today and locals know about it. Surprisingly it holds the rare distinction of escaping the ruthless desecration of Muslim invaders especially the Mughals.

Centuries old Kardameshwar Mahadev Mandir located near Kandwa Pokhra is said to be ancient Shiva Temple that forms a part of the most respected Panchkroshi Yatra and  is said to be one of the best preserved temples of Varanasi.

A bit of biiter history 

                         According to the locals, this entire area used to be a dense forest centuries ago. Historians opine that Shah Jahan in 1624 took shelter in the surrounding areas of Benares when the Mughal troops had laid siege to Prayagraj. After ascending the throne in 1628, Shah Jahan, whose tyranny is superseded only by his son Aurangzeb ordered that all Hindu temples should be destroyed and the construction of temples must cease forthwith. Over 76 temples were demolished in Kashi alone. Aurangzeb passed the controversial order on 9 April 1669 that gave his men the right to demolish all Hindu schools and temples and to use any means necessary to put down their religious teachings and practices.

The horrific desecration of the sacred shrine of Shree Kashi Vishwanath Temple on 4 September 1669 and the construction of a mosque on its site and destruction of sacred temples in and around Kashi is yet another fine example of the religious intolerance of Aurangzeb. As the Kardameshwar Mahadev Mandir was located deep in a thickly wooded area, the Mughal soldiers did not find the courage to enter the forest.

Steep in Legends

This temple finds a mention in Kashi Khanda and described in detail in holy scripture Skanda Purana. According to the Hindu scriptures, Lord Rama incurred the Brahmahatya dosha after killing Shiva bhakta Ravana, Lord of Lanka. He was advised by Kulaguru Vashishta Brahmarshi on his return to Ayodhya to absolve himself of this sin by visiting Kardameshwar Mahadev Temple along with his family. After taking a dip in the divine Kandwa Sarovar, Lord Rama circumambulated Lord Mahadev and Parvati Devi and was liberated from the dosha. The tradition of parikrama has been established since then.

Kashi Khanda also states that Rishi Kardam, the manasaputra of Brahma performed severe penance here for thousands of years. Such was the intensity of his tapas (austerities and penance) that tears of joy (ecstatic bliss) used to fall from his eyes which then formed a pool that is seen in front of the temple. Lord Vishnu gave Rishi Kardam darshan in this place and asked him to seek a boon. Rishi Kardam prayed that Lord Vishnu would be born as a son to him to which Lord Vishnu consented. Rishi Kardam married Devahuti and had nine girls and one boy named Kapila.

Rishi Kardam also pleased Mahadev with his tapas who offered him a boon in return. The pious sage had become quite aged by this time and sought the boon of youth from Lord Mahadev. Lord Shiva asked him and his wife to take a dip in the kund and lo! Rishi Kardam and his wife regained their youth. Locals say that if one is able to see their shadow in the pool, it means that they will have a long life. It is highly recommended to take a dip in this kund to improve one’s mental and physical health.

There are many more stories associated with this temple mentioned in the Hindu scriptures which the locals and priests will narrate with great enthusiasm and devotion. The temple derives its name from Rishi Kardam who consecrated the Shiva Linga in the sanctum sanctorum.

               The exterior walls of the temple has a number of carvings from the Hindu pantheon, including Vishu with Garuda, Shiva with Nandi and Brahma with Hamsa.The river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna flank the entrance to the sanctum. The Linga is said to have been installed by Sage Kardama, which is how the temple got its name. Worship here is performed by offering five different types of grain; black lentils, green lentils, rice, wheat, and barley.

The baffling truth is that how this monument escaped destruction is still unclear to me and historians. Though it is somewhat removed from the heart of the city, I stood imagining and inquisitive to know wheather similar ancient structures once stood here nearby, especially along the Panchakroshi Yatra and other pilgrimage routes that extended out of the city.

It’s difficult to accept and  to even contemplate just how much has been lost in Varanasi over the centuries. As one of the oldest cities in the world, temples similar to Kardameshwar must once have been a common sight in and around Kashi, and now we are left with just to appreciate the one lone survivor.

Though the concrete structures that have engulfed the  temple’s surroundings,still the ambience is simply charming and offers solitude.Tourists visiting Banaras are confined to ghats and places in vicinity. A visit to Kardmeshwar  really gives you a feel of feeling quite removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, and a insight of rural setting that this temple once enjoyed is still very tangible even today.