Dwarasamudra Then ; Halebeedu Now !

             The sun was playing hide and seek, and the dark clouds loomed over the horizon. A sudden change in the weather pattern gave me clarity that all my efforts waiting 4 long hours to get a glimpse of sunset would definitely be in vain.I was just heading back from Andal or Ranganayaki temple to the main entrance of the temple complex. I asked a  passerby to lead me to Dorasamudra or Dwarasamudra. A vacant look followed by, No idea sir ! .. was the instant and straightforward reply !. Later when enquired with a tourist guide, without an extra word  I was referred to a resort close by called Dwarasamudra!

I was at Hoysala Monument - Belur.

I was flabbergasted to hear that whether people don't know or I question myself else they just have forgotten about the erstwhile capital of Hoysalas?

Dwarasamudra, which was literally known as Entry to Ocean dated to the 12th Century and is today a major tourist spot in Karnataka.

A true architectural wonder and must-visit for those interested in architecture referred to as Halebeedu today!

As I stepped out of the monument and looked back, the western skies brightened and a ball of fire suddenly emerged out, as if looked like a respite from the veil of dark clouds.It was a perfect silhouette.! Indeed. The divine light made my long wait really memorable and worthwhile!

With no fixed plans I decided to spend a night at Dwarasamudra recommended by the guide which was 8 km away from the temple.

We drove in the countryside gazing at the vast lake shimmering in the twilight, in no time we reached the resort set in at a  picturesque location.

I literally felt that I was in Malenadu, with the sweet smell of fresh coffee flowers blooming. The caretaker Mr. Krishna was eagerly waiting to receive us. The old structure resembles the Malenadu house and is often referred to as Thottimane !.

Natural light peeping in, with a good antique collection was a love at first sight !. The main hall or courtyard is surrounded by rooms and every aspect has a heritage look! Though it is in proximity to Belur, i was unheard. .I literally felt that i was blessed to have visited this unknown paradise in disguise!

The Heritage stay has a total 9 spacious rooms with attached western toilets and a simple dining area with all amenities including a swimming pool.

At the portico sitting on vintage collection swings opposite to each other and oscillating with no track of time, rocking on the easy armchair and just fun was only pastime. Delicious fresh hot cooked food . What else can one ask for ? . Morning a stroll through the coffee plantation till stream is an ideal way to spend time at leisure and keep once engaged in the morning, the sun peeping through the foliage was soothing and warm followed by a cup of steaming hot coffee!

After a sumptuous breakfast, we checked out of the resort as we unanimously decided to go on a sightseeing trip to Dwarasamudra - Halebidu located just 21 km from the resort. We reached the temple entrance of Halebeedu long queues nor entrance fee like any other monuments listed by ASI. At the entrance, I could hear the tune of a  flute and violin and was dumbfounded. Call them as creative local artisans or musicians.

I noticed few selling old travel brochures of Belur and Halebeedu monuments to eke out a living.I could see the mighty vast Dwarasamudra lake in the background. After a few steps from the entrance, i was at the main entrance of Hoysaleshwar temple.I could see lot of tourists though it was a weekday in the scorching summer of february. We decided to hire a guide of ASI to learn more.

The guide pointed at the waterbody and mentioned that Hoysalas were ruling from Velapuri or Belur from  the banks of the Yagachi River. When Vinayaditya shifted to Dwarasamudra in the 11^th century, he built a canal to channel water from Yagachi to the new capital. A tank was built and the Hoysaleshwara temple was later constructed on its bank. And then, it was renamed as Halebeedu, meaning old abode.!

We take a stroll through the bylanes of the temple into the old village where Dwarasamudra comes alive in the ruins. An inscription here speaks of a battle fought here against the Kalachuriyas by Veera Ballalla II. A few tourists go boating on the lake, which was once the foundation of Dwarasamudra, which means Entry by Ocean.

We start clockwise and our guide points out at a carving and explains the importance of animals according to strength depicting relation to the construction of a temple in various stages, used in warfare, stories related to Ramayana, The Valour of Vali, Ravana Lifting Mount Kailash, Lord Ganesha as Yadamuri and Balamuri, Sacred and Giganti carving of  Nandi the celestial vehicle of Lord Shiva.

The stories from Puranas, Avatars of Vishnu, Faith of Bhakta Prahalada, MIniature carvings, Lord Narasimha's appearance, Chakra Vyuha, and Valour of Abhimanyu and grace of Shiva and his consort Parvathi.

Usage of telescopes in war and arrows resembling today's missiles. Helmets and safety shields or head gear used for protection and attire.The imagination of craftsmen. The dancing posture of Queen Shanthala and a close look at leg movement, of skin pattern Imagination of craftsmen and observation is noteworthy mentioning here!

You can brush through https://blog.summitersadventures.com/apsaras-of-belur

We spent nearly about 1 hour at the main Holysaleshwara temple complex, later took a stroll, With the view of  Bennegudda hillock in the backdrop, the remnants of the old city stood silently. A  staue of Bahubali or Gomateshwara, a fortified palace and a pedestals of temples lie scattered on the lawn. There is a Linga with some headless sculptures and some broken friezes. This was the capital of a dynasty that once defeated the  Cholas, Chalukyas,Kadambas and Kalachuryas before being destroyed by internal strile and ravaged by the Muslim invaders in the 14^th century lay before us like a open air museum.

We had in mind exploring important and few unknown hoysala shrines, neglected temples around ......

1.Kedareshwara Temple

2.Jain Temple

3.Hulikere Kalyani

4.Chatta Halli Chatteshwara Temple

5.Belavadi Temple 

Our guide was not willing to accompany us to Kedareshwara temple overlooking Dwarasamudra Lake, just 2 kms away. Though it is a beautiful shrine and protected monument, we came to know that only few tourists visit this place. The temple houses a sanctum with an idol of Shiva in Linga form. We were lucky to enter the sanctum, as main shrine will be always locked!

This Mandir was known as Dwarasamudra Mandir before it was ransacked and looted by Jihadi forces twice in the 14th century AD and the name was hence changed to Halebidu "Destroyed City".

This is one of the marvels of the Hoysala empire. There are thousands of carvings and most intriguing of all are the specific details on each one of them.

Image of Kedareshwar Temple 1866 -1886 Photo courtesy - Thomas Alexander

Unlike the Chennakeshava Mandir, this one is known for the carving on its walls outside of the Mandir. The inside work of the temple couldn't be finished after 108 years since the construction started because of the damages done to the Murtis and the structure itself.

A Jain temple adjacent to the Kedareshwara temple is worth visiting too. We visited the water tank called Hulikere Kalyani recently excavated about 3 kms from Kedareshwara Temple. It was the bathing place exclusively constructed for Queen Shanthala amidst the deep jungle.It is said that even tigers dared to roam here because of the stronghold stationed here. 

Hulikere Kalyani

Chatteshwara Temple

From here we drove to a sleepy hamlet called Chatta Halli. The inscriptions say that it was constructed in 12 th century during the reign of  Veera Ballala III by an accountant called Chatta Danda Nayaka. Temple resembles the Trikuta style of architecture.and has 3 different sections namely Sancturm, Navaranga, and Mukha Mantapa. All the 3 santurms have idols of Eeshwara in Linga form, Surya riding on horses with two attendants Usha and Pratyusha. There are images of Yaksha and Tandaveshwara images in Sukanasi.

One can find carvings of Gajalakshmi and Shaiva gatekeepers can be noticed.In the main hall Navaranga, 9 pillars look and are ornated with a figure of Bhuvaneshvari devi. The outer walls of the temple are simple with only reliefs.

Finally, we visited temple of Veeranarayana at Belavadi.It is also known as Ekachakranagara, is very near to the famous temple towns of Halebidu. This temple was built in the 13th century by Veera Ballala II. While Belur and Halebid are famous for their intricate sculpture, this temple is one of the best examples of Hoysala architecture.Built in the Trikuta style –with three vimanas 

Kalinga Mardhana - Veera Narayana Temple @ Belavadi 

Making Dwarasamudra Heritage stay as a base we were able to visit Hoysala shrines sandwiched between Hassan and Chikmagalur in half a day.The contribution of the Hoysala dynasty to art and architecture is immense. Though there are 92 temples, only a few have been having been identified by ASI and quite a few are in sheer neglect even today..After being ravaged by invaders Then prosperous Dwarasamudra or Halebeedu Today literally synonymous with Ocean,  is full of surprises and has everything to appease the thirst of worshippers of true art!

For those willing to travel with a customized plan and willing to reserve their stay can contact 

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